Everest and Back
And so the journey began…Saturday 10th November
2012 – Heathrow Airport.
Actually it began Thursday 16th February 2012 when Lisa Michelle Conway passed away. Out of something truly awful came something wonderful and on a whim in March I signed up with Cornwall Hospice Care (CHC) to undertake the Everest Base Camp Trek Challenge to try and repay a marvellous organisation for looking after my wife, and work colleague, for the last 3 months of her life. I must also confess to a lifelong wish to visit the Himalayas. With a 50th birthday in November this year, it all added up. I certainly had doubts about raising the £3395 (+£500 registration fee and other expenses to be paid for out of my own pocket) but thanks to your generosity I had surpassed £3395 in donations alone within 2 months. Thank you. Throwing myself into the fund-raising activities over the ensuing months helped take my mind off what had happened over the past weeks, months and years and getting out on the fantastic Cornish coastal paths each week was a good way of blowing away any cobwebs. Hopefully you’ve glanced at my training walk blogs. I loved putting them together as well as doing the actual walks.
Actually it began Thursday 16th February 2012 when Lisa Michelle Conway passed away. Out of something truly awful came something wonderful and on a whim in March I signed up with Cornwall Hospice Care (CHC) to undertake the Everest Base Camp Trek Challenge to try and repay a marvellous organisation for looking after my wife, and work colleague, for the last 3 months of her life. I must also confess to a lifelong wish to visit the Himalayas. With a 50th birthday in November this year, it all added up. I certainly had doubts about raising the £3395 (+£500 registration fee and other expenses to be paid for out of my own pocket) but thanks to your generosity I had surpassed £3395 in donations alone within 2 months. Thank you. Throwing myself into the fund-raising activities over the ensuing months helped take my mind off what had happened over the past weeks, months and years and getting out on the fantastic Cornish coastal paths each week was a good way of blowing away any cobwebs. Hopefully you’ve glanced at my training walk blogs. I loved putting them together as well as doing the actual walks.
So back to business.
How did the trek go? I can
honestly say it was probably the hardest physical activity I’ve undertaken as an adult but if you have time to look at some
of the (many) photos, I’m sure you’ll agree the scenery was truly stupendous.
Saturday 10th November / Sunday 11th November
Sixteen of us (13 trekkers including Amy Barnie from CHC and 3 Expedition Wise Tour leaders)
met up at Heathrow T4, late afternoon,
having arrived from all points of UK over the previous couple of days. I believe I was first there – most unusual eh
Thom?! A rather well turned out lady by the name of Sally Pickles was the last
to arrive, having crammed in a last minute sauna at the Sofitel. She started as she meant to go on…
immaculately turned out.
2030hrs. Plane delayed, on the runway, for ice, yes ice, in
the UK!! 46 degrees Fahrenheit outside.
Bearing in mind ice can’t form till it drops to 32 degrees ( 0 degrees Celsius)
– how can that happen? If I told you it
was 31 degrees CENTIGRADE in the cabin at the same time you’ll begin to
understand our trekkers’ incredulity.
Last time I’ll be hot for a while I mused. I was sat between Kate Phillips and Sally
Pickles – a rose between two thorns, or a cheese and pickle sandwich?! I
settled down for the 6 hr trip to Doha, Qatar and enjoyed the airline’s fine
hospitality. I didn’t get much sleep and changed planes at 0300 GMT. After another 3.5 hrs we boarded the Qatar
airways flight to Kathmandu (slightly less comfortable). Arrived at 1630hrs local time, after 27 hours
on the 2 planes. Braced for the cold I
pulled my hood up against the 22 degrees Celsius (yes you read correctly) temperature
and bright sunshine. Blimey, back to the
drawing board! There followed an ‘interesting’ journey through the streets of Kathmandu
during the start of the Diwali festival for an hour long journey to our
hotel. The streets were alive with
sounds and smells. What an introduction
to Nepal.
We ate well at the hotel and encountered our first power cut before nodding off (sorry Brian Jackson) through our introductory talk. We were told about all the things we should have brought and amongst other omissions I realised I didn’t have any lip protection – a Katie Price pout trout for me then? We went to our rooms at 2315hrs (1830 GMT) having had no sleep since the day before. No lie-in though we were up 6 hours later for our first day PROPER!!
(Click on the triangle in the bar at the bottom of the video if it is blank to play it).
We ate well at the hotel and encountered our first power cut before nodding off (sorry Brian Jackson) through our introductory talk. We were told about all the things we should have brought and amongst other omissions I realised I didn’t have any lip protection – a Katie Price pout trout for me then? We went to our rooms at 2315hrs (1830 GMT) having had no sleep since the day before. No lie-in though we were up 6 hours later for our first day PROPER!!
Monday 12th
November (Day 1)
My new trek night-time partner (Hugh) woke every hour, but I
was dead to the world. Up at 0445 hrs! for
a quick brekkie before the 1 hr transfer to Kathmandu airport (2850m), arriving
at 10am. Our bags were loaded on to the
roof of the bus so it was with some relief I saw mine come off at the other
end. At this point I should declare a
concern - my bag weighed in at a hefty 18kgs and was rather voluminous compared
to Hugh’s sleek one. I’d not been too
concerned knowing it would be carried on the back of a dzho (a cross between a
cow and a yak but unlike a yak they’re able to breathe below 3000m) but had
forgot I had to lug it occasionally and squeeze it into a tent every
night! We all emptied some kit out and
left as much as we dared at the hotel as
the weight limit was 15kgs for the Kathmandu – Lukla flight. The plane was compact and bijou and 3 of the
bags didn’t make it on to our plane.
Space was so tight the stewardess (why?!) couldn’t even get down the
middle of the plane.
I’d already checked out the flight on you tube and was braced for the exciting take-off and landing, but it was still a memorable experience.
We arrived safely and after a brief briefing we set off on our first leg towards Phakding (2652m), 8-10 kms downhill. The weather turned foul pretty quickly from sunny, to overcast, to rain, to sleet. Out came the waterproofs and, heads down, we trudged on, wondering what we’d let ourselves in for?
Two of our number, Russell and Sally, got major headaches and Sally started throwing up. Lunch was a cheese sandwich, chips, and rather strong greens, set off by a cheeky chilli sauce, washed down by hot lemon and coffee. We arrived at our camp site at 5pm. It was by now dark and we were soaked through. We stretched down, warmed up in a tea lodge, and slunk off to our tents at the relatively late hour of 10pm. Oh yes, I had also been traumatised en route by a herd of dzhos (or yak-cows as I shall refer to them) that chased me into a campsite, much to the amusement of everyone else).
I’d already checked out the flight on you tube and was braced for the exciting take-off and landing, but it was still a memorable experience.
We arrived safely and after a brief briefing we set off on our first leg towards Phakding (2652m), 8-10 kms downhill. The weather turned foul pretty quickly from sunny, to overcast, to rain, to sleet. Out came the waterproofs and, heads down, we trudged on, wondering what we’d let ourselves in for?
Two of our number, Russell and Sally, got major headaches and Sally started throwing up. Lunch was a cheese sandwich, chips, and rather strong greens, set off by a cheeky chilli sauce, washed down by hot lemon and coffee. We arrived at our camp site at 5pm. It was by now dark and we were soaked through. We stretched down, warmed up in a tea lodge, and slunk off to our tents at the relatively late hour of 10pm. Oh yes, I had also been traumatised en route by a herd of dzhos (or yak-cows as I shall refer to them) that chased me into a campsite, much to the amusement of everyone else).
Tuesday 13th
November (Day 2)
So here was my first dilemma. Did I keep drinking water, as instructed, to
fend off altitude sickness, or avoid getting up for a pee every 2
seconds in the night by abstaining? I opted for the
former on day 1 and had to get up 3 times (versus Hugh’s 4). The temperature outside was a balmy 7 degrees
Celsius but it felt colder when I nipped outside in my thermals and down jacket
(in case I fell over, knocked myself out and died of hypothermia according to
our comforting expedition leader Brian Jackson) for a wee. My sleeping bag was up
to the job. In fact I got too hot and had
to take my head out of the bag’s hood.
After a hearty breakfast we set off at 0845hrs and arrived at Namche
Bazaar at 5pm. The day was a big slog
(all uphill till Base Camp to avoid repetition!) of 12 kms. We ascended 800m to 3440m and it took its
toll on all of us. The trail was very
busy and I worked out how to avoid yak-cows and Korean tourists very
quickly. Quick drama when I left my
camera at a lunch stop and had to go back for it. We crossed 5 suspension bridges, high, windy
and swingy – picture I’m a Celebrity Get Me Out of Here, without Ant and
Dec. Each one seemed higher and longer
than the previous one, culminating in the aptly named ‘Bridge of Prayers’…and
yes we did.
The view from our tents at sunset was stupendous and I couldn’t wait for the next day.
The view from our tents at sunset was stupendous and I couldn’t wait for the next day.
Wednesday 14th
November (Day 3)
I was up with the larks at 0545hrs, having been awake since
0430hrs, to see the sunrise. The clouds
obscured it at first, but cleared to reveal amazing scenes of the mountains surrounding
the bowl lit up by the first rays of the day.
The temperature had dipped to 1 degree Celsius overnight, although again it seemed colder. Just 3 trips to the loo last night but I can’t begin to describe the torment of weighing up the need to go versus the discomfort of getting out of a nice warm sleeping bag, putting on damp, cold clothes and fighting your way out of an icy tent to go in….a hole in the ground.
No running water (hot or cold), toilets or cars for 2 weeks folks. Wet wipes all the way. I’d had a headache last night and took painkillers but it hung around all day and for the next few days while my body acclimatised to the altitude. More taken at lunchtime after consulting our trip paramedic, Brian, who certainly knew his stuff. With 2 'professional' paramedics taking part in the trek (and a chiropractor) our ailments were well looked after. Today was a rest day – or ‘acclimatisation’ day as Brian called it. There were a couple of them built into the ascent and they were designed to give our bodies’ time to adjust to the change in altitude and reduction in oxygen levels. We checked our oxygen saturation levels daily and they ranged from 70% of normal to a maximum of about mid-90s (below which you’d be packed off to A&E in UK). At 0845 hrs we set off on a short circular walk near the Everest View Hotel where Brian regaled us with one of his amusing tales. This one about the Japanese tourists who fly in to this level, step off the plane, promptly collapse due to the altitude, and are stretchered in to their hotel till the next morning when they’re stretchered back on to the plane snapping happily away at a distant Everest as they gasp for air. Our stroll wasn’t too hard and at the top we were rewarded with our first glimpse of the mighty mountain. We were made to close our eyes, hold on to the shoulders of the person in front and shuffle to the vantage point. AWESOME!! Her sister mountains, Lhotse, and Ama Dablam (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ama_Dablam) were even more impressive from this distance.
We had a delightful father /son combo on this trip, Dave and Gavin Renwick. Gavin was really suffering with a throbbing headache which he never shook off till near the end of the trek poor thing. He was given Diamox, an anti-altitude drug, but it didn’t do much for him as he was violently sick near the top of today’s walk. He didn’t make lunch and crashed in his tent all afternoon when we got down. At our campsite I also decided to rest as I wasn’t feeling great. Some of the others went into the village to ‘shop’. I reflected a bit about why I was here L. I shared some photos of Lisa and the boys with the Sherpas. They loved them, as well as marvelling at Cornwall’s beautiful coastline. I received the occasional text from Oscar’s child-minder, Thom, which was comforting. Strangely some of our party could get a signal all the way up, when basics such as electric and water were AWOL!
The temperature had dipped to 1 degree Celsius overnight, although again it seemed colder. Just 3 trips to the loo last night but I can’t begin to describe the torment of weighing up the need to go versus the discomfort of getting out of a nice warm sleeping bag, putting on damp, cold clothes and fighting your way out of an icy tent to go in….a hole in the ground.
No running water (hot or cold), toilets or cars for 2 weeks folks. Wet wipes all the way. I’d had a headache last night and took painkillers but it hung around all day and for the next few days while my body acclimatised to the altitude. More taken at lunchtime after consulting our trip paramedic, Brian, who certainly knew his stuff. With 2 'professional' paramedics taking part in the trek (and a chiropractor) our ailments were well looked after. Today was a rest day – or ‘acclimatisation’ day as Brian called it. There were a couple of them built into the ascent and they were designed to give our bodies’ time to adjust to the change in altitude and reduction in oxygen levels. We checked our oxygen saturation levels daily and they ranged from 70% of normal to a maximum of about mid-90s (below which you’d be packed off to A&E in UK). At 0845 hrs we set off on a short circular walk near the Everest View Hotel where Brian regaled us with one of his amusing tales. This one about the Japanese tourists who fly in to this level, step off the plane, promptly collapse due to the altitude, and are stretchered in to their hotel till the next morning when they’re stretchered back on to the plane snapping happily away at a distant Everest as they gasp for air. Our stroll wasn’t too hard and at the top we were rewarded with our first glimpse of the mighty mountain. We were made to close our eyes, hold on to the shoulders of the person in front and shuffle to the vantage point. AWESOME!! Her sister mountains, Lhotse, and Ama Dablam (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ama_Dablam) were even more impressive from this distance.
We had a delightful father /son combo on this trip, Dave and Gavin Renwick. Gavin was really suffering with a throbbing headache which he never shook off till near the end of the trek poor thing. He was given Diamox, an anti-altitude drug, but it didn’t do much for him as he was violently sick near the top of today’s walk. He didn’t make lunch and crashed in his tent all afternoon when we got down. At our campsite I also decided to rest as I wasn’t feeling great. Some of the others went into the village to ‘shop’. I reflected a bit about why I was here L. I shared some photos of Lisa and the boys with the Sherpas. They loved them, as well as marvelling at Cornwall’s beautiful coastline. I received the occasional text from Oscar’s child-minder, Thom, which was comforting. Strangely some of our party could get a signal all the way up, when basics such as electric and water were AWOL!
Thursday 15th
November (Day 4)
We trekked to Deboche today at 3705m, leaving at 0800hrs,
and arriving at 1615hrs (it’s dark by 1730hrs).
Approx. 10kms of more hard graft but the views kept us all going and
we’d developed a good team spirit. I didn’t sleep well last night despite
being in my bag by 2030hrs. I still had
a headache and was awoken at 2200hrs by a faraway Diwali party. I got up for the loo. The party stopped and the howling dogs took
over…all night. 0030 hrs. another loo
break and stayed awake for another 2 hours before dozing off. I was also thirsty but dared not drink in
case I had to get up again. Up at 0600hrs
I witnessed another glorious sunrise and after a breakfast of egg on toast
(yummy) we set off for Deboche. The trek
was fantastic in terms of views of Everest (without its customary plume),
Nuptse, Ama Dablam and Lhotse.
We lunched outside at Phungitenga and then undertook a strenuous 2 hour uphill schlep to the beautiful Ghompa monastery at Tyangboche, with fantastic views (normally) of Everest behind.
They were obscured today, prompting the first of many memorable sayings from CHC’s Amy ‘Where’s Everest’? We were privileged enough to witness part of a Buddhist service before ‘retreat’ing to an adjacent cake café (yes really) when we got too cold…no heaters readers, anywhere. In the evening you might be treated to a yak-fired heating stove at best. I had a lovely slice of apple pie before descending for 15 mins to Deboche . More thoughts about Lisa as I struggled with my breathing at various stages of the day.
We lunched outside at Phungitenga and then undertook a strenuous 2 hour uphill schlep to the beautiful Ghompa monastery at Tyangboche, with fantastic views (normally) of Everest behind.
They were obscured today, prompting the first of many memorable sayings from CHC’s Amy ‘Where’s Everest’? We were privileged enough to witness part of a Buddhist service before ‘retreat’ing to an adjacent cake café (yes really) when we got too cold…no heaters readers, anywhere. In the evening you might be treated to a yak-fired heating stove at best. I had a lovely slice of apple pie before descending for 15 mins to Deboche . More thoughts about Lisa as I struggled with my breathing at various stages of the day.
Friday November 16th
(Day 5)
Onwards to Dingboche (4358m)
The terrain changed today- much more open. Through a forest of birch, fir juniper
and Rhododendron and Deboche the trail climbed gently until the Imjatse valley
when it got steeper and the views more impressive, with Ama Dablam, Nuptse and
Lhotse towering over us. I’m sure I had
a temperature today. I found the altitude more of a challenge and my patience was tested to the limit with all and
sundry. Today was another anniversary
I didn't want to celebrate - one year today since Lisa was admitted to Mt Edgcumbe
Hospice. L
Saturday November
17th (Day 6)
Our second acclimatisation day, this one at Dingboche. More painkillers last night though this time
more precautionary. And only 1 wee stop,
but at 2200hrs, only 1 hour after going to bed grrr. Minus 5 degrees Celsius in the tent. Chilly?
Perversely it is warmer with 2 people in a tent than in a room with a
few people in a draughty ‘tea lodge’.
Nice and warm in my Ray Mears bag though. It’s good to minus 30 degrees though
thankfully I didn’t get the chance to try it out in that situation. A lie-in with brekkie at 0800hrs followed by
a short 2.5 hr walk up the hill for 200m and back again. My legs were now fine and my fever gone but I
still got out of breath easily, more so than most of the others I noted, though
a few of my colleagues were struggling in other ways. Oxygen at 89% today, similar to Namche Bazaar
so stable but I was higher in terms of altitude. The next 2 days would be tough (er). More time to reflect about why I’m doing this. Sobering. Incidentally, beer had been available all the
way up – lugged up by dzhos or human Sherpas carrying ridiculous loads of 45k
or illegal double loads of 90kgs but NOBODY remotely fancied a beer.
Yes these are rocks. They were building a house!!
A few of us pottered out in Dingboche in the afternoon for a slice of cake and I had a nuclear pink milkshake. Gavin’s dad used his ‘negotiating skills’ to end up paying double what he thought he should for a bit of internet access! Well done Dave!
Yes these are rocks. They were building a house!!
Risk assessment anyone?!
A few of us pottered out in Dingboche in the afternoon for a slice of cake and I had a nuclear pink milkshake. Gavin’s dad used his ‘negotiating skills’ to end up paying double what he thought he should for a bit of internet access! Well done Dave!
Sunday November 18th
(Day 7)
Trek to Loboche (4928m, or 16262 feet, for you other old
codgers). This was the hardest and
coldest day so far. 8kms and 1200 foot
gained after lunch alone. The trail
seemed to go on and on. We passed through a beautiful memorial ground for all
the mountaineers and Sherpas that have perished over the years on Everest and
surrounding mountains. Fabulous views of Mt Pumori and other peaks west of
Everest. Loboche itself was barren and
stark. Base Camp tomorrow!
Monday November 19th
(Day 8) = BASE CAMP ATTEMPT
The temperature dropped to minus 11 Celsius in the tent
overnight!! Ice on the inside. I was fine in my sleeping bag but once
outside… 14 kms today to base Camp ascending to Gorakshep – 5288m (original
Base Camp for Edmund Hilary’s early 50’s Everest ascent). Fact lovers – this is FOUR times the height of Ben Nevis, the UK’s highest peak) and then
on to the current Base Camp. Well till
next year when they re-site it on the ever shifting Khumbu ice fall! What a
killer of a day. Rocky moraine all the way. We made a total height gain of 429
metres. We set off at 0615hrs (work back
from that to get an idea of the wake-up call). One of our number, Emma, hadn’t
made it with us today due to poor health. We all felt sorry for her.
We made Gorakshep by 1100hrs.
Three others from our group, Gavin, Hugh, Sally and one of our
Expedition Wise guides, Kate, didn’t make the final hop to Base Camp but
everyone had tried their hardest. I was
determined to make it regardless of how I felt but I did wonder if I could. 9 of us plus our other 2 Expedition guides,
Ian and Brian set off after lunch for the final leg. We’d been told it would take another 4 hours
there and 2 hours back. It was very cold
and when the end was in site it was across a difficult valley and my heart sank
but it was within touching distance so I pushed on. It was a bit of an an effort. We were the last group there when we finally
made it to the site of this year’s Base camp (5357m, 17537 feet), which meant
we had the place to ourselves for the obligatory photos. To be honest I was so tired and cold I didn’t
take it all in. Perversely you can’t see
Everest from Base Camp but the sense of achievement made up for it. We’d walked
to an altitude 300m shy of the top of highest peak in Europe (Mount Elbrus in
Russia) and 2/3 of the way up Everest! I spread some of Lisa’s ashes up there
and joined in the group hugs. Then Kate
(Phillips) did the most wonderful thing and produced a letter/drawing from
Oscar (written by Thom, his child-minder) together with a photo of Oscar
drawing me ‘up the mountain’. It was a choker for sure. Another member
of our group, Katrina, unfurled a banner of her father who’d also succumbed to
Cancer, in 2011. Very poignant. Pausing
only to pick up a few Everest rocks I trooped back, utterly exhausted but
elated. In the event we made it there
and back from our lunch stop in only 4.5 hours instead of the forecast 6. Thank god for that!! Dinner, then bed at a
relatively warm minus 9 degrees!
Tuesday November
20th (Day 9)
We’d been due to arise at about 4am and trek up to Kalapatthar
(5647m) for stunning views of Everest at dawn but nobody was in good enough
shape to attempt it (which is what usually happens apparently!). It was optional and everyone opted out. We’d done what we came for and wanted to get
down) We had a ‘lie-in’ till 0630hrs and set off at 0830hrs DOWNHILL for
Pherice via Dughla for lunch– hurrah. I found the walking easy today after yesterday's exertions and
we made camp by 1530hrs.
Wednesday November
21st (Day 10)
Pheriche – Tesing Losasa – 15kms. This was our second day of ‘walking out’ but
it was harder than yesterday with a vicious uphill to the monastery we’d passed
through a few days ago. Although there
were more downhill sections now we were covering double the ground each day and
using different muscles so although the walking was easier, it wasn’t easy, if
that makes sense. However, we definitely
had more time to take in the fabulous views and the mood was lots
lighter. My fitness levels were finally
improving (bit late I know) but in reality I didn’t find the walking the
struggle, just the breathing. There had
a been a friendly bit of racing rivalry going on, once the ability to survive
had been overcome, and a different group of trekkers hit the front over the last
few days. I joined them at times and even won the most improved trekker award
at the end – damned with faint praise I fear?!
Only 2 nights to go. Most people,
including me, were attracting flies by this stage and were really looking
forward to a hot shower and a bed by now.
The famous 'plume' of Everest (peak to the left with cloud coming off it Amy).
Thursday November
22nd (Day 11)
Tesing Losasa – Chumoa – 11 Kms via the beautiful Namche
Bazaar. 0815 start and in camp by 1615
hrs. Most importantly I only had 1 wee
overnight!! The sky looked amazing
today. The trail was very dusty as it
always was lower down – the yak-cows and trekkers kicked it up. Mostly downhill again and 4 bridges covered
over the mighty Dudh Koshi river. I was
missing my boys by now but hadn’t phoned them on purpose to avoid confusing them. The signal was erratic anyway and the time
difference (5hrs ahead of UK) made it difficult to time calls.
Friday November 23rd
(Day 12)
Chumoa – Lukla. Downhill all the way in theory but in
practice there were lots of short uphill and downhill sections and a long
uphill section at the end. Brian referred to these sections as 'undulating' which caused a bit of banter at the nightly briefings. 'Uphill' was also referred to as 'traversing' in Brian's world!! I’d only managed a few hours’ sleep last night,
having woken at 1230hrs for a wee and then lay awake for at least 4 hours
pondering the universe. Up at 0630hrs
and away by 0815hrs, we were in good spirits.
The weather was fine and we made good progress. My fitness had improved and I clawed my way
up to 3rd place in the big charge at the end (even though it wasn’t
a race Alan).
The worst kept secret and best news of the day was that we weren’t staying in a tent tonight but a lodge!! The Buddha lodge was right next to the airstrip, and very basic, but felt like the Hilton compared to our tents. The room had beds, a flushing toilet AND running cold water…luxury. Readers, did I neglect to mention that we had been using a hole in the ground for the last fortnight? We stormed into our ‘hotel’, dumped our bags and I hot-footed it after Brian and Ian (Expedition Wise) to the local Barber shop. We needed a shave…. and badly. US$20 later my head and face had been shaved and our necks and backs massaged – lovely. Next stop a bar and a few ice cold bottles of Everest lager (yes really).
Perversely Spurs were playing Lazio on the wall with a Chinese commentary. Back at the lodge we had the best meal of the trek so far as the two chickens we’d collected at lunchtime met their maker. My they tasted good. The evening finished with a touching presentation to the 20, yes 20, support staff who had smoothed our trip. We tipped the group of them about US$120 each and left any kit we didn’t want for them and their families. Those guys really exist on nothing. Quite humbling really…………
The worst kept secret and best news of the day was that we weren’t staying in a tent tonight but a lodge!! The Buddha lodge was right next to the airstrip, and very basic, but felt like the Hilton compared to our tents. The room had beds, a flushing toilet AND running cold water…luxury. Readers, did I neglect to mention that we had been using a hole in the ground for the last fortnight? We stormed into our ‘hotel’, dumped our bags and I hot-footed it after Brian and Ian (Expedition Wise) to the local Barber shop. We needed a shave…. and badly. US$20 later my head and face had been shaved and our necks and backs massaged – lovely. Next stop a bar and a few ice cold bottles of Everest lager (yes really).
Perversely Spurs were playing Lazio on the wall with a Chinese commentary. Back at the lodge we had the best meal of the trek so far as the two chickens we’d collected at lunchtime met their maker. My they tasted good. The evening finished with a touching presentation to the 20, yes 20, support staff who had smoothed our trip. We tipped the group of them about US$120 each and left any kit we didn’t want for them and their families. Those guys really exist on nothing. Quite humbling really…………
Saturday November
24th (Day 13)
So my journal ended last night but there was plenty going on
from now on in so here goes. Another
ridiculously early start. A few beers last night didn’t help matters but we
were going back to civilization so I made it up OK as we had to be checked in
for 0730 hrs (I think) in the (vain) hope of getting the first flight. In the event, after a bit of hanging around, we were back on the death trap by about
1100hrs and it was every bit as enjoyable on the return leg.
Lukla airport -A downhill runway to assist take-off?!
Safely back in Kathmandu we simply walked off the plane on to our bus, with our bags taken care of – fantastic. Through the hub-bub we arrived at the relative luxury of our hotel and walked into town for a delicious pizza and beer of course. In the afternoon some of us opted for a free bus to see a ceremonial open air cremation area on a tributary of the Ganges (intriguing yet disturbing)
and a tour around one of the amazing Buddhist temples (impressive)
before hurriedly changing for our final night, out in Nepal. Expedition Wise, employed by Cornwall Hospice Care, really did us proud throughout the trek and their professionalism and benevolence seemingly knew no bounds, so a special thanks to Director and all-round top bloke must go to Brian Jackson. We were treated to a free Nepalese (very hot) curry extravaganza. Delicious!! Also thanks to our fellow trekker, David Renwick, for picking up the drinks tab. Back at the hotel more drinks were consumed (well we did have 2 ‘dry’ weeks to make up for) before we staggered off to bed, very happy and very tired.
Lukla airport -A downhill runway to assist take-off?!
Safely back in Kathmandu we simply walked off the plane on to our bus, with our bags taken care of – fantastic. Through the hub-bub we arrived at the relative luxury of our hotel and walked into town for a delicious pizza and beer of course. In the afternoon some of us opted for a free bus to see a ceremonial open air cremation area on a tributary of the Ganges (intriguing yet disturbing)
and a tour around one of the amazing Buddhist temples (impressive)
before hurriedly changing for our final night, out in Nepal. Expedition Wise, employed by Cornwall Hospice Care, really did us proud throughout the trek and their professionalism and benevolence seemingly knew no bounds, so a special thanks to Director and all-round top bloke must go to Brian Jackson. We were treated to a free Nepalese (very hot) curry extravaganza. Delicious!! Also thanks to our fellow trekker, David Renwick, for picking up the drinks tab. Back at the hotel more drinks were consumed (well we did have 2 ‘dry’ weeks to make up for) before we staggered off to bed, very happy and very tired.
Sunday November 25th
(Day 14)
I now had to pack my already huge overfilled bag and squeeze
in all the fabulous souvenirs I’d acquired yesterday. Somehow it all went in and we set off for the
airport again. Safely on board our Qatar
airways flight we busied ourselves for take-off. 1.5 hours later (yes 1.5 hours –refuelling delay
caused a missed slot apparently) we took off and I gazed out at what might be
my last ever view of the Himalayas? What
an experience and what a nice bunch of trekkers to complete it with.
And with the money still coming in I expect to have raised for Cornwall Hospice Care
in excess of £12000, towards a total raised by all the trekkers in excess of £55000, which I’m proud to say was the
best part of the whole experience. Thank
you EVERYONE! from Alan
For Lisa Conway (1973-2012)
There are almost too many people to thank for helping me
achieve my goals of staying sane; raising a good sum for CHC, and reaching
Everest Base Camp, but here goes: Oscar, Oliver, Ben, Caleb and Nate, our ‘5-a-side
team’, for inspiration. Lisa’s Aunt Ann,
her husband Viv, and daughter and son-in-law, Gary, for practical and emotional
support. My family and manager Roger, my team of Team
Leaders, and many others within my workplace who’ve been kind enough to help or
ask after me. Teresa Sweet deserves a
special mention. Anyone that turned out to shake a tin on a Saturday on Lemon
Quay in Truro, or in St Austell, on a Saturday – my word that was hard!. If I never see another balloon it will be too
soon but these collections raised over £1000.
Amy and Rose at Cornwall Hospice Care for their cheerful support and all
the local businesses that donated prizes for the numerous raffles I held, both
through work and outside. I still think
it was a fix I ended up with the Keith Chegwin hat and t-shirt. Why couldn’t I
win the keg of Doombar?! During the trek itself, Brian, Kate, Ian and all the
guys and girls – we had a real laugh through the adversity. Thanks. If I’ve left anyone out of my thank you list
I’m sorry. I’m truly amazed at the
generosity of people in these cash-strapped times but to give your time up for
a charity is something special. Thank
you again.
And here are the rest of the photos...........https://plus.google.com/photos/105333294597462645373/albums/5819522945704391793?authkey=CJvr4-PFyYutaw
Please let me know if any of the links are broken.
And finally, if anyone has yet to donate or was waiting till I did it, here's your chance. Just click on the link below!!
CLICK HERE TO DONATE
No comments:
Post a Comment